Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: St Clair, Clapham

St Clair is an interesting new opening in Clapham. From the outside it’s looking like a refined French fish restaurant, with dark blue walls, marble tables, comfortable chairs and a wet fish counter at the front. But the sign on the window says it’s a cevicheria, the dishes on the menu stir in some Brazilian …

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Review: Trinity, Clapham

Does it tell you anything about us that the last three places we’ve lived have all been within ten minutes walk of a Michelin starred restaurant? For the record: Mr Underhills in Ludlow, Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, and now Trinity in Clapham. Of course not all Michelin stars are created equal, so it was …

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Review: Anglo, Holborn

Meh. Shortest review ever! To be fair, there’s a bit of a clash of expectation vs reality here, as people have written lots of gushing and nice things about Anglo. So I was expecting special. What I got was a by-the-numbers 6 course tasting menu with some fairly clunky flavours and cooking in parts. Hence, …

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Review: Trivet, London Bridge

We’ve hit peak small plate. I know that, because our waitress at Trivet took the trouble to explain the menu: “Our menu is a three course concept. We suggest you pick one from the starters, one from the main courses and one from the desserts.” Which is entirely fair. I expect there are probably many …

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Review: Acorn, Bath

I like to think I’d find it easy to go vegan. When I scan a menu it’s the accompaniments that catch my eye before the protein. “Oooo… roast jerusalem artichokes and Madeira sauce! I’ll have some of that! With chicken? Sure, whatev.” More than that, some of my favourite dishes at top restos have been …

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