Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Counter Culture, Clapham

So you finish a long day of house moving activities, lugging boxes and driving back and forth across London, and it’s almost 9 in the evening and you realise it’s a long time since lunch. And you don’t have a kitchen yet and besides, it’s almost 9 o’clock. So you wander out into Clapham (your …

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Review: Kebab Queen, Soho

I bloody loved my dinner at Kebab Queen. Couldn’t stop smiling all the way through it. I defy anyone with an ounce of fun in them to have a bad time here. But on a serious note, there’s genuinely great cooking going on too. So how do I review the experience without spoiling the surprise …

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Review: Trinity Upstairs, Clapham

Next in my review series “So… is it still any good?” is Trinity Upstairs, the relaxed small plate partner to the grown-up and Michelin starred Trinity downstairs. I was startled to find it empty on a sunny Saturday lunchtime, and only one other table joined us later. This is a travesty really, as we enjoyed …

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Review: Shore, Penzance

Let me tell you about Penzance and St Ives, the two towns on the edge of the Land’s End peninsula (or Penwith, as it’s more properly called). One of these towns has winding cobbled lanes absolutely stacked with lovely shops, galleries and cafes, many of which wouldn’t look out of place in Bath or Brighton. …

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Review: Native, London Bridge

Normally ants on your ice cream is a source of consternation. But at Native they were there on purpose and added some great zing to a really beautifully made pea pod ice cream. Native is tucked away in an unpromising spot, almost under a railway arch on a corner at the very start of the …

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