Category: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Gostilna Pri Lojzetu, Slovenia

[singlepic id=507 w=280 h=210 float=right]Scene setting. We’re in Slovenia, a tiny country on the edge of the Balkans with Italy on one side and Austria on another. A long weekend is highly recommended, a week if you can spare it, and we’ve found at least one top-drawer restaurant for you. A meal is an entire …

Continue reading

Review: Gamba, Glasgow

[singlepic id=484 w=280 h=210 float=right]It is well known that deep-fried Mars Bar is a Glaswegian chip shop staple, which may explain why Glasgow’s favourite fish restaurant has such a free hand with the butter. Glasgow has a few fine fish restaurants vying for the title of favourite, as it ought to: there is so much …

Continue reading

Review: No 1 Vault at La Becasse

[singlepic id=466 w=280 h=210 float=right]Rumours of the death of fine dining are much exaggerated. In fact, I’d say that in dining rooms up and down the land fine dining is getting busy exploring new ways to stay relevant and special. I’m going to remember cooking my own steak at the Savoy Grill for a long …

Continue reading

Review: Purnell’s, Birmingham

[singlepic id=460 w=280 h=210 float=right]I struggle to love Birmingham. It’s handsome in parts, ugly in others, and sits in that uneasy size bracket where a city is too large to be friendly but too small to be metropolitan. Someone give me a list of reasons to love Birmingham and I’ll check them all out next …

Continue reading

Review: Cambio de Tercio

[singlepic id=426 w=210 h=280 float=right]This bastion of Spanish cuisine in London has been around for a few years and has a great reputation. It doesn’t really need reviewing by me, as every major critic has sung its praises at some point. So let’s call this a check-up, just to make sure they’re still dishing up …

Continue reading