Category: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Native at Netherwood Estate, Worcestershire

Native at Netherwood

We first dined at Native five years ago when they had a place near Borough Market and I really enjoyed their inventive use of native ingredients: they served us aged ex-dairy cow before it was trendy, and Kentish wood ants on our pea pod ice cream. White chocolate and bone marrow caramel served in the …

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Review: Pine, Northumberland

Barbecued hogget

There’s a strong breed of restaurants now with some shared characteristics and in need of a catchy name. Wish I was good at catchy names. They are emphatic about local sourcing of excellent produce, usually with a strong element of foraging mixed in. They embrace seasonality and delve extensively into ancient, and particularly Japanese, techniques …

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Review: Solstice, Newcastle-upon-Tyne

A table at Solstice

How has it taken me so many years to visit Newcastle? It’s a lovely place. Handsome centre and riverside, lovely revitalised ex-industrial art district, loads of friendly people, lots of good food ‘n drink. Recommended: Deep North for ace doughnuts and coffee. It also has a blindingly good restaurant in Solstice. I’ve meant to visit …

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Review: Lympstone Manor, Devon

John Dory and langoustine

Lympstone Manor is in a lovely spot on the Exe estuary and has swiftly earned a Michelin star since chef Michael Caines opened a few years ago. It’s a classic country house hotel, elegantly furnished rooms full of light and lovely things, excellent service throughout. The restaurant offers a classic and a seafood tasting menu …

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Review: Bibi, Mayfair

Bibi

Bibi is very Mayfair. Fully on trend, there is mostly counter seating, but here the stools are plumply upholstered affairs with comfortable backs. Lighting is dark and clubby. A carafe of water is offered, then appears as £3.5 per person on the bill. And the included service charge is 15% of course. We did enjoy …

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