Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Cinnamon Club, Westminster

The Cinnamon Club certainly feels like the kind of dining room where you may spot a couple of famous faces. Partly it’s the location, in a grand building along one of the film-set roads in Westminster, not far from the heart of government. Partly it’s the restaurant, with its grand dining room and polite, excellent …

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Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell

Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …

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Review: The Dog & Gun, Skelton

The Dog & Gun is a pub with a Michelin star, hiding in a quiet north-east corner of Cumbria a long way from the Wainwright fells. The star is an interesting award, because there’s nothing stuffy or gussied-up about the pub or its food, and no matter what they say on their website I’ve always …

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Review: LPM, Mayfair

Pissaladiere

LPM remind me a lot of The River Cafe. Splendid produce. A real sense of place. A love of good, simple food. Eye-watering prices. I’m particularly bothered by the wine menu. It must be said that there are a handful of wines on there for under £100. But a handful just means you feel self-conscious …

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Review: Osip, Bruton

Bruton is a tiny town on the Somerset-Wiltshire border, with two medieval schools and a rural perfection that hasn’t gone unnoticed by a scattered variety of artists, architects and antiquarians who dot the high street but wouldn’t look out of place in a quiet corner of Fitzrovia. It’s also got a Michelin star in Osip, …

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