I love the menu at Nanban. It says something very true to my heart: that there is no “right and wrong” in cuisine, there is just stuff that works. And when stuff doesn’t work, it’s not usually because there’s something inherently wrong with the combination; it’s just been done poorly. So Nanban is quite clearly …
Category Archive: London
Review: The Canton Arms, Stockwell
We were very lucky to squeeze in a Sunday lunch before Tier 3 asserted itself across London. And we picked a good’un in the Canton Arms. It’s the stable-mate of some of our favourites; the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, the Magdalen Arms in Oxford and the Stockwell Continental in… well, about four doors down …
Review: Quality Chop House, Shoreditch
We had one of those great but pointless discussions about “what is Modern British cuisine?” and you’ll be glad to hear I’m not going to bore you with my arguments or our (lack of) conclusions. Although I think we did conclude that the Quality Chop House is still genuinely Traditional British, just with some useful …
Review: Fallow, Soho
Comfort is a big part of how you rate a meal, whether you care to admit it or not. I remember getting to WTLGI down slippery frozen steps on a snowy night, teeth chattering, and then finding that it was never quite warm enough in the dining room to thaw out properly. I’m willing to …
Review: Chishuru, Brixton (eat at home)
We’ve enjoyed a bunch of upmarket takeaways over the lockdowns this year. Naughty Piglets worked out a superb set of menus that were an absolute doddle to reheat and plate at home, we ordered from them at least three times. And to control our bias, I can report that we had a takeaway meal from …