My favourite thing at Mana. They made a fudge by reducing down 120 litres of cucumber juice to a mere dollop. It no longer tasted of cucumber exactly, but still had a green note along with a deep sticky-sweet flavour a bit seaweedy. This blob made a superb relish for some insanely well cured sea …
I’ve done it. I’ve reached “jaded” point with British modern Indian cooking. I came out of Gymkhana thinking a few different things: (1) that was pretty good, (2) I am utterly stuffed… am I actually waddling? and (3) does aloo chat really belong on a £85 tasting menu? Not only aloo chat. We also had …
This is our first big splash-out meal since lockdown began, and we’ve kicked off with a truly great one. But I want to start by applauding all the front of house staff in all the restaurants around the country. I hate wearing a mask for 30 minutes to do a supermarket shop. I can’t even …
You know, it’s possible I’m running out of things to say. The last few reviews have been hard to write. It’s very easy to dive straight into what a nice dining room it was, what we had for starter, main, dessert, and then a summary. But that’s not satisfying (to write or to read!). Anything …
BRAT is definitely very on-trend. There’s a natural re-loved feel about the big old workshop-like space that has been fitted out with plenty of re-purposed wood. There’s a massive open fire full of fiercely glowing red coals, ready and waiting for the big chunks of meat that are BRAT’s hallmark. And of course, it’s all …