Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Native, London Bridge

Normally ants on your ice cream is a source of consternation. But at Native they were there on purpose and added some great zing to a really beautifully made pea pod ice cream. Native is tucked away in an unpromising spot, almost under a railway arch on a corner at the very start of the …

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Review: Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, Soho

Maybe Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs hasn’t got the oddest name of any Michelin 2-star restuarant, but it’s got to be in the top three. Out the front is a champagne and hotdog bar, which explains the name, and I was pleased to see they specialise in small champagne producers at sensible prices. In the back …

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Review: Ikoyi, St James

Our first dish was a bit of a statement of intent. A crescent of plantain dusted with deep pink powder and a blob of vivid orange smoked scotch bonnet mayo. It looks like abstract art and tastes explosive and unexpected on a fine dining menu. Which this is, nine courses and a proper price tag. …

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Review: Cora Pearl, Covent Garden

Cora Pearl is a pre-theatre restaurant in a Covent Garden side street. Over dinner we were trying to decide what kind of restaurant it is an absolutely typical example of. Eventually we concluded: it’s an absolutely typical London pre-theatre restaurant. Tiny tables closely packed, dark wood, carafes of wine, a couple of diners you’d swear …

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Review: Bao, Soho

I’ve had more than a couple of messy bao bun experiences in the past, struggling to keep the filling wodged in while taking bites… oops, there goes the fennel slaw. So it was a bit of a joy to devour the bao at BAO Soho. Their buns are so soft, sweet and fluffy that they …

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