Review: Crab House Cafe, Weymouth

Crab House Cafe

Crab House Cafe

I love going to the coast. One of the main reasons I love it is the explosion of shabby-chic seaside shack restaurants that serve up smashing fresh seafood hauled out of the sea nearby. I don’t know who exactly started it and where, but we’ve found them from Pembrokeshire to Kent, Northumberland to Devon and everywhere in between. There’s some really good ones in Dorset and the Shellfish bisque

Shellfish bisque

Because their speciality are the Portland crabs fished within spitting distance of the restaurant, we opted for a bowl of crab bisque to begin. This was gloriously good, distinctly crab and deeply flavoured, but also bright and fragrant with some citrus and a drizzle of fennel oil. Nice saffron aioli too. For a main course Maureen went with huss kebabs, huss being an underused fish that is maybe somewhere between cod and monkfish in texture. It took on the tandoori marinade very well indeed and had been delicately grilled, still soft and translucent to eat. The hummus, giant couscous and bean accompaniment was just a teensy bit much carbs, but all tasty. My main was coley fillet, another underused fish that is perhaps like slightly robust haddock, and mine was cooked perfectly too. I’ve a real bugbear about overcooked fish, so if you like your fish dry and very white inside you shouldn’t take my recommendations. This was the opposite, soft and slightly slippery and just a bit translucent. The pesto and toasted almond flakes accompanied well, as did the mixture of roast Mediterranean veg underneath and the lightly truffle-oiled mushrooms on the side.

Great seafood, maybe about £40 for two courses – so not the cheapest seaside shack, but the quality was great and they’ve got a good drinks list of chilled wines, spritzes and cocktails to swig with it. Worth knowing.

Huss skewers

Huss skewers

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