Review: Root, Bristol

We’re seriously contemplating getting a flat overlooking the floating harbour in Bristol. Just nosing around the Cargo complex of re-skinned shipping containers it feels like we could have a great bite to eat at a different place every night for two weeks and still not run out of options. Today we had lunch at Root, Josh Eggleton’s newest place, and the view from the terrace doesn’t get much better.

It’s British small plate cooking, a real mixture but definitely nothing more than a nod towards the Mediterranean. There’s a short drink list, but the blazing July day absolutely demanded an Aperol Spritz. We picked a half-dozen dishes and they came pretty promptly…

Beetroot with hazelnut was good, a generous helping with a light pickling and some fruity blackberry notes. Couldn’t really work out where the promised “seaweed” element was, and at heart this really wanted to be a side dish rather than a main event.

The leek and rarebit was a massively tasty success. Softly sweet leeks, smothered in a nicely yeasty rarebit made with strong cheddar, topped with wafer-fine pastry and a scatter of dukkah.

Neat single piece of fried chicken in a perfect crisp/light batter. The gooseberry chutney worked well, sweet and sharp. Another dish I enjoyed was a smokey aubergine goo topped with char-grilled aubergine and bits of feta and dates. Finally, a very good bit of onglet tartare with a mountain of salty game chips on top. The tartare was well-mixed, unctuous, with plenty enough capers to balance the flavour.

This was a good lunch in pleasant surroundings. At around £21 for 3 plates it feels like fair value. I’d definitely make Root a common haunt if I lived down on Bristol’s floating harbour, although to be fair I’d probably try the other dozen options first, just in case there’s something even better…