Tag Archive: London

Review: P Franco, Hackney

Although it is no longer there and I’ve no idea what chef Clive Davies is doing these days, I will always remember the Green Cafe in Ludlow. Some chefs produce deceptively simple food but have such a deft touch at balancing flavours and seasoning that eating it always transports you to a better place. The …

Continue reading »

Review: Bancone, Covent Garden

Such a range of top-notch well-priced pasta places in the city these days. Mostly thanks to Padella, who – whether they were the original or not – certainly put the spotlight on the format and spawned the repeats. It works like this: small hand-printed menu, handful of simple starters, handful of simple yet beautifully executed …

Continue reading »

Review: Fiume, Battersea

The river front at Battersea Power Station is a very nice place to be now – as you’d hope, given the number of multi-million pound apartments surrounding you on all sides. It has an array of places to eat and we’ve been recommended No 29 and Wright Bros to try, but on this occasion we …

Continue reading »

Review: Quality Chop House, Shoreditch

We had one of those great but pointless discussions about “what is Modern British cuisine?” and you’ll be glad to hear I’m not going to bore you with my arguments or our (lack of) conclusions. Although I think we did conclude that the Quality Chop House is still genuinely Traditional British, just with some useful …

Continue reading »

Review: Fallow, Soho

Comfort is a big part of how you rate a meal, whether you care to admit it or not. I remember getting to WTLGI down slippery frozen steps on a snowy night, teeth chattering, and then finding that it was never quite warm enough in the dining room to thaw out properly. I’m willing to …

Continue reading »