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Review: The Shed, Porthgain

Porthgain is a tiny harbour village tucked into a little rocky cove on the north Pembrokeshire coast. It feels like the middle of nowhere on a wet weekday evening in March (Pembrokeshire is like the forgotten version of Cornwall) and so it’s odd to walk into through the battered little door of The Shed down …

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Review: Dexters at Brown’s Hotel, Laugharne

Souffle

Brown’s Hotel is a lovely place, a cosy inn nestled in the estuary village of Laugharne on the coast of Carmarthenshire. Like the village, the pub is closely associated with Dylan Thomas, indeed it was basically his local. And I think the man liked a beer. They’ve modernised since then, with handsome wood furniture and …

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Review: Annwn, Narberth

Oyster

Annwn might be a bit of a marmite restaurant: some will love it, others will leave bemused. For the record, we loved it, but that’s because it ticks all our culinary buttons. Chef Matt Powell cares deeply about place and provenance, loves using obscure and unfamiliar local and foraged ingredients, isn’t scared of strong flavours, …

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Review: Barang, Borough Market

Crudites

Barang is a Cambodian restaurant residency upstairs at the Globe in Borough Market, although apparently they’re hoping to be opening permanently – probably in Soho – later in 2026. There’s not a lot of Cambodian eateries in the UK, even though it shares a lot of ingredients, techniques and dishes with the surrounding SE Asian …

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Review: The Three Oaks, Gerrard’s Cross

STP

How have I never been to The Three Oaks before? Hmm. Perhaps because it’s in Gerrard’s Cross! Far enough out of town that I’d have no reason to come this far as a Londoner, but not far enough to be part of a weekend break. Well, the folks of Gerrard’s Cross and the Chalfonts have …

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