Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Rockfish, Brixham — 16 August 2025
  2. Review: The Club House, West Bexington — 16 August 2025
  3. Review: Da Mario, Kensington — 16 August 2025
  4. Review: Chisou, Mayfair — 3 August 2025
  5. Review: The Vine Tree, Crickhowell — 3 August 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Review: Speedboat Bar, Soho

To be honest, this Speedboat Bar review could be a copy-and-paste of Plaza Khao Gaeng, which is by the same folks. And that’s no bad thing, I’d love a branch of their kind of punchy, authentic, in-your-face Thai cooking down the road from me! I’d love one in every town I visit. Of course, I …

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Review: The Flint House, Brighton

Ah, Brighton’s Lanes! There’s the North Laine, north of the main street, and the Lanes, between the main street and the seafront. Both of them full-to-the-brim with independent eating and shopping, much of it quirky and left-field, many of them doomed to fail within a year or two, to be replaced by a fresh bunch …

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Review: Tatale, Southwark

I fondly remember having a meal in the Africa Centre maybe twenty years ago, when it was in a completely different location. It was the first time I tried chicken gizzards (and decided they weren’t very interesting) and there were mice running around on the floor, which deeply concerned some of the diners. The little …

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Peppercorn sauce

Just in case you’re making a steak… 1 big shallot, fine diced 3 tsp black peppercorns, 2 tsp pink peppercorns 20g butter big pinch salt 2-3 tbsp brandy 200ml beef stock 2 tsp mushroom ketchup or worcester sauce 100ml double cream Dry-toast the black peppercorns, then crush 2 tsp of them. Melt butter and fry …

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Review: Kota, Porthleven

We ate at Kota on the day after Boxing Day, as we’d gone down to spend Christmas week in Cornwall. I feel it’s worth saying this as I’ve had a few meals around the holiday season that haven’t turned out as excellently as reviews of the restaurant would suggest… and I wonder if it’s that …

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