Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Row on 5, Mayfair — 5 February 2025
  2. Review: Asador 44, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  3. Review: Heaneys, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  4. Review: Crispin, Clapham — 22 December 2024
  5. Review: Cinnamon Bazaar, Covent Garden — 13 December 2024

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Review: The Loch & The Tyne, Old Windsor

The signature dish at The Loch & The Tyne, Adam Handling’s big rambling dining pub in Old Windsor, is a starter called ‘Mother’. It’s a splendidly savoury dish of thin slices of baked celeriac formed into a package around a creamy-gooey interior that includes the warm earthy flavour of truffle, the odd zing of apple …

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Review: Evelyn’s Table, Soho

We snuck into Evelyn’s Table just a month before they won their first Michelin star, so it’s quite possible that the price of the menu has already gone up a tad! But it was a great menu, and a bargain when we ate, so I’m willing to bet it’s still well worth the price of …

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Review: Benares, Mayfair

Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …

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Review: Ogino, Beverley

When we reported back to friends about our meal at Ogino, a Japanese restaurant in Beverley, they reflected that after a few grim experiences they have basically given up on trying Japanese restaurants outside of major cities. And I must admit I can also think of three really poor examples without much effort. Four, now. …

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Review: Joro, Sheffield

I don’t usually go for wine pairings with a tasting menu. I find it ends up being too much booze and I can’t really pay attention to the later courses, often leaving the restaurant feeling a bit dyspeptic to boot. Now and again we make an exception and I’m very glad we did at Joro. …

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