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Review: Rambutan, Borough Market
There is plenty of properly spiky Sri Lankan spice at this new place in Borough Market. Rambutan has an open kitchen counter while most of the seating is big tables with big wooden benches to suit 4 to 8 people. Decor is spartan, adding to the street food vibe, and with a big echoey ceiling …
Review: The Pig’s Head, Clapham
The Pig’s Head is a great gastropub conversion of a huge old tavern in Clapham Old Town, with a high glass-domed ceiling and plenty of scrubbed wood, dried flowers and jars of preserved and pickled on shelves. They have a strong focus on meat (though their veg dishes are great by my reckoning) and have …
Pinxos in San Sebastian
It has become something of a foodie pilgrimage, a familiar trail to those in the know. You can follow them on Twitter: someone will share a photo of a little plate of food or a chalkboard menu and the replies are scattered with knowing guesses as to which of the tiny pinxo bars in San …
Review: LPM, Mayfair
LPM remind me a lot of The River Cafe. Splendid produce. A real sense of place. A love of good, simple food. Eye-watering prices. I’m particularly bothered by the wine menu. It must be said that there are a handful of wines on there for under £100. But a handful just means you feel self-conscious …
Review: Toba, St James’s
Toba is an Indonesian restaurant in the glossy little corner of St James’s where all the restaurants need to be wearing a bowtie. You can’t have industrial-retro, handwritten menu boards or bistro furniture here. Which feels like it leaves Toba a little oddly placed, trying to keep a bit of street-food style Indonesian but needing …