Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts

Review: The Elderflower, Lymington

Pud

So we took a last-minute weekend down in the New Forest. There was literally one place on booking.com available, The East End Inn, pretty much middle of nowhere. We got there and discovered that slightly bizarrely it was owned by the bass guitarist of Dire Straits and had a (kinda average) seafood restaurant attached. Apparently …

Continue reading

Review: C & R Cafe, Soho

Nasi lemaaaaak

I probably shouldn’t write this review. C & R Cafe is a tiny walk-in only eatery down a little back-alley on the edge of Chinatown that you’d never know was there. Even so it was busy enough when we stopped in for lunch. If my blog suddenly makes it popular, we’ll never get a table! …

Continue reading

Review: Oxheart, Long Compton

Pork

I know what kind of cuisine I like. I like powerful flavours. I like them sharp, sour, bitter, umami. Ferments and pickles. Charring and smoking. Herb and spice. I’m not so bothered by delicacy and cream, butter and elegant simplicity. I think this explains why sometimes my lukewarm reviews of places like Five Fields and …

Continue reading

Review: Endo at the Rotunda

Charming host Endo

Chef Endo has spoiled all other sushi restaurants for me. When your sushi is made by hand in front of you, and the piece of seafood is firm and perfect, and the rice is still warm and of perfect pearly grains with a hint of very friendly vinegar, and it is handed directly to you …

Continue reading

Review: The Small Holding, Kent

Peas

Well that was foolish. Go for a seven hour hike on a blazing hot day and then try to have an evening tasting menu at 8:30. Reader, I did very nearly fall asleep in my dessert. So I’m maybe not going to do The Small Holding justice, which is a shame because what I absolutely …

Continue reading