Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: 27 Harbour Street, Broadstairs — 9 January 2026
  2. Review: A La Russe, Windsor — 9 January 2026
  3. Review: Fatt Pundit, Covent Garden — 9 January 2026
  4. Review: Khao-So-I, Fitzrovia — 14 December 2025
  5. Review: Bistro Union, Clapham — 8 December 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Review: Ogino, Beverley

When we reported back to friends about our meal at Ogino, a Japanese restaurant in Beverley, they reflected that after a few grim experiences they have basically given up on trying Japanese restaurants outside of major cities. And I must admit I can also think of three really poor examples without much effort. Four, now. …

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Review: Joro, Sheffield

I don’t usually go for wine pairings with a tasting menu. I find it ends up being too much booze and I can’t really pay attention to the later courses, often leaving the restaurant feeling a bit dyspeptic to boot. Now and again we make an exception and I’m very glad we did at Joro. …

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Review: The Pack Horse, Hayfield

We’ve got a new vice. It’s this: self-catering stays attached to National Trust properties. Okay, not as exciting as you were hoping. But so far it’s been great, staying in a historic building, in what have been huge and well-equipped apartments or cottages, and with free access to roam around the grounds (when no-one else …

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Swede gratin

The combination of brassica, cheese, vinegar and chilli work really well (think: kimchi toastie) and this gratin is just the best. 1 big swede (4-500g?) 1 onion 1 garlic clove 80g cheddar 180ml double cream 1dsp of little pickled Brazilian chillies Slice the swede thinly and par-boil for 4 mins in salted water. Slice the …

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Review: Da Terra, Bethnal Green

Tacos are definitely the fine dining cliche from the last 2 or 3 years. It’s the strangest thing, but I’d swear that three quarters of the tasting menus I’ve eaten lately have included some form of taco. There’s no real point I’m heading for here, I can’t really mock the trend or fall in love …

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