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Author's posts
Review: Proudfoot & Co, Winchester
I was always going to be drawn in by Proudfoot & Co, a “refreshment room” offering distinctly abnormal cafe beverages down a tiny sidestreet in Winchester. And I was not disappointed. I’m not sure there is anything else remotely like it in the country right now. I hope there will be. First off, if you …
Review: Quality Chop House, Shoreditch
We had one of those great but pointless discussions about “what is Modern British cuisine?” and you’ll be glad to hear I’m not going to bore you with my arguments or our (lack of) conclusions. Although I think we did conclude that the Quality Chop House is still genuinely Traditional British, just with some useful …
Review: Fallow, Soho
Comfort is a big part of how you rate a meal, whether you care to admit it or not. I remember getting to WTLGI down slippery frozen steps on a snowy night, teeth chattering, and then finding that it was never quite warm enough in the dining room to thaw out properly. I’m willing to …
Romesco sauce
This smokey red sauce is great with fish, with leeks (in Spain it is served with calcots but leeks are a much easier alternative) and almost certainly with chicken. 1 long red pepper 1 large tomato 1 tsp mixed sweet and hot smoked paprika 1 or 2 garlic cloves 20g hazelnuts 20g almonds, de-skinned 1 …
Review: Chishuru, Brixton (eat at home)
We’ve enjoyed a bunch of upmarket takeaways over the lockdowns this year. Naughty Piglets worked out a superb set of menus that were an absolute doddle to reheat and plate at home, we ordered from them at least three times. And to control our bias, I can report that we had a takeaway meal from …