Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Khao-So-I, Fitzrovia — 14 December 2025
  2. Review: Bistro Union, Clapham — 8 December 2025
  3. Review: Wildhive at Callow Hall, Ashbourne — 8 December 2025
  4. Review: OMA, Borough — 8 December 2025
  5. Review: Sabor, Mayfair — 8 November 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Speedy Ceviche

There was an obscure kid’s cartoon on Saturday mornings while I was at University. It was called Samurai Pizza Cats, it was a parody of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (bwa?), and the main character’s name was Speedy Ceviche. At the time I had no idea what “ceviche” was, except that it was food related. …

Continue reading »

Molecular gastronomics

I got a Molecular Gastronomy Kit for Christmas! So once the enormous glut of seasonal food was chewed down to the last couple of mince pies and the final gobbet of Christmas pudding it was time to start playing the mad scientist… The kit is the MSK Molecular Gastronomy Starter Kit and while I haven’t …

Continue reading »

Review: Old Hall Persian, Dorrington

Persian is one of the three “grand cuisines”, along with French and Chinese. For me it conjures up images of delicate meats cooked with perfumed spices and exotic fruits. Yet it isn’t something you see a lot of in provincial towns and cities (well, unless you want to count doner kebabs as cuisine). So to …

Continue reading »

Steak tartare

Whenever I visit France I throw myself at the steak tartare like a love-struck fool. Because absence makes the heart grow fonder and this simple dish is harder to find on UK menus than beetroot macarons. Not impossible, I grant. But don’t bother telling me about the one posh brasserie in London you know of …

Continue reading »

Review: The Unicorn, Ludlow

I’m sometimes tempted to make allowances for duff food on the grounds that at least it was cheap. But that’s daft. I’m a half-decent home cook, no Delia but no bad either. So I can confidently state that it doesn’t cost more money to cook crunchy chips, it just requires that you cook them right. …

Continue reading »