I’m a big fan of the recent revival in unusual and old-fashioned cuts of meat. Some of my favourite recipes are slow braised oxtail in mustard, wine braised lamb shanks or sticky slow-cooked pig cheeks. One thing bugs me though. Food writers who alongside their recipes lazily reiterate a view no longer true; that these …
Category Archive: Recipes
Recipes
Soufflé essentials
It is so often said that soufflés are challenging, precarious concoctions that will collapse pathetically like your dreams of a place on Masterchef if you so much as look at them funny. They’re not! I’ve never had a problem with them, sweet or savoury. It’s not as though I learned from a pro, or spent …
Hay, hay, hay!
The latest bit of experimentation inspired by our astonishing meal at Noma is hay smoking. The principle is fairly simple: put some hay into a big casserole, put some foil in with your foodstuff on top, cover with the lid and get it on a high heat for 5-10 minutes. This will get the hay …
Smoked bacon fudge
I am always most delighted by a restaurant that breaks new ground, taking food in a direction I have never encountered before. That’s probably because I have a well developed sense of adventure, and whereas an element of natural timidity steps in to prevent me going skydiving over the Sahara, when it comes to stuffing …
Raspberry leather etc.
Tonight’s dinner was a fairly typical example of my style of cooking. Have an idea and run with it. Make it up as you go along, drag the laptop out to the kitchen half way through because you realise you need a recipe for one of the elements. Make tonnes of washing-up, put lots of …