The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …
Category Archive: Fine dining
Review: Cinnamon Club, Westminster
The Cinnamon Club certainly feels like the kind of dining room where you may spot a couple of famous faces. Partly it’s the location, in a grand building along one of the film-set roads in Westminster, not far from the heart of government. Partly it’s the restaurant, with its grand dining room and polite, excellent …
Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell
Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …
Review: The Dog & Gun, Skelton
The Dog & Gun is a pub with a Michelin star, hiding in a quiet north-east corner of Cumbria a long way from the Wainwright fells. The star is an interesting award, because there’s nothing stuffy or gussied-up about the pub or its food, and no matter what they say on their website I’ve always …
Review: LPM, Mayfair
LPM remind me a lot of The River Cafe. Splendid produce. A real sense of place. A love of good, simple food. Eye-watering prices. I’m particularly bothered by the wine menu. It must be said that there are a handful of wines on there for under £100. But a handful just means you feel self-conscious …

