Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Mirazur, Menton, Cote d’Azur

The important question to answer: is a meal at Mirazur worth 380 euros per head? That’s just the menu, no drinks. Although this being France, the wine list had options all the way down to 60 euros! Anyway, the answer is “no” by any objective measure. I’ve enjoyed two or three tasting menus every bit …

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Review: The Loch & The Tyne, Old Windsor

The signature dish at The Loch & The Tyne, Adam Handling’s big rambling dining pub in Old Windsor, is a starter called ‘Mother’. It’s a splendidly savoury dish of thin slices of baked celeriac formed into a package around a creamy-gooey interior that includes the warm earthy flavour of truffle, the odd zing of apple …

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Review: Evelyn’s Table, Soho

We snuck into Evelyn’s Table just a month before they won their first Michelin star, so it’s quite possible that the price of the menu has already gone up a tad! But it was a great menu, and a bargain when we ate, so I’m willing to bet it’s still well worth the price of …

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Review: Benares, Mayfair

Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …

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Review: Joro, Sheffield

I don’t usually go for wine pairings with a tasting menu. I find it ends up being too much booze and I can’t really pay attention to the later courses, often leaving the restaurant feeling a bit dyspeptic to boot. Now and again we make an exception and I’m very glad we did at Joro. …

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