All over the land the same story is played out. A country pub closes, typically a tired boozer beloved of the village, and like a phoenix from the ashes it re-opens as a country hotel with cosy rooms, period features and an aspiring dining room. Some pay lip service to their old role by leaving …
Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews
Restaurant reviews
Review: Chutney Mary, Chelsea
The dining room at Chutney Mary is certainly a good place for a celebratory meal, especially if you can get a table under the conservatory at the back. Surrounded by palms with a leafy tree overhead you might almost – almost – be eating under the stars in a palace garden in Udaipur. The lighting …
Review: Lumière, Cheltenham
Something trivial bugged me about our lunch at Lumière in Cheltenham. Bear with me, there is arithmetic. We arrived intending to have the lunch menu (£22 two courses, £26 three courses) but the a la carte menu was so full of intrigue that we splashed out (£42 two courses, £47 three courses). And of course …
Review: Euclid Hall, Denver
Luckily I had low culinary expectations for our trip to Yellowstone National Park and the wild west states surrounding it. There were some appalling lows, however. My teeth can still recall chewing doggedly through a chunk of “slow cooked bison” that required more mastication to choke down than a cowboy hat, while across the table …
Review: Roganic, Marylebone
By now Roganic has been pretty much reviewed by everyone. If it wasn’t enough that whispers of Simon Rogan’s inventive cooking in his far-flung Cumbrian kitchen have been leaking down to the smoke for a few years, he then appeared on Great British Menu and uniquely got all four of his courses into the final. …