Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Laxsa, Soho — 7 May 2025
  2. Review: The Horse Guards, Petworth — 26 April 2025
  3. Review: Chet’s, Shepherd’s Bush — 19 April 2025
  4. Review: Mamapen, Soho — 15 April 2025
  5. Review: The White Horses, Rottingdean — 5 April 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Herb flavoured oils

These are really easy to do, so thanks to chef at Aulis for explaining how! Take a great big bunch of your herb, chop it roughly and throw it in a blender. Add plain olive oil, or you could try rapeseed oil, maybe 200ml for a big bunch. Oh: if your herbs need washing first, …

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Review: The Loch & The Tyne, Old Windsor

The signature dish at The Loch & The Tyne, Adam Handling’s big rambling dining pub in Old Windsor, is a starter called ‘Mother’. It’s a splendidly savoury dish of thin slices of baked celeriac formed into a package around a creamy-gooey interior that includes the warm earthy flavour of truffle, the odd zing of apple …

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Review: Evelyn’s Table, Soho

We snuck into Evelyn’s Table just a month before they won their first Michelin star, so it’s quite possible that the price of the menu has already gone up a tad! But it was a great menu, and a bargain when we ate, so I’m willing to bet it’s still well worth the price of …

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Review: Benares, Mayfair

Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …

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Review: Ogino, Beverley

When we reported back to friends about our meal at Ogino, a Japanese restaurant in Beverley, they reflected that after a few grim experiences they have basically given up on trying Japanese restaurants outside of major cities. And I must admit I can also think of three really poor examples without much effort. Four, now. …

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