Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Toba, St James’s

Chicken wings in goop

Toba is an Indonesian restaurant in the glossy little corner of St James’s where all the restaurants need to be wearing a bowtie. You can’t have industrial-retro, handwritten menu boards or bistro furniture here. Which feels like it leaves Toba a little oddly placed, trying to keep a bit of street-food style Indonesian but needing …

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Review: Cher Thai, Clapham

Fishcakes

Cher Thai is a small but busy little Thai restaurant around the corner from us that opened up just before lockdown began. We went early on, had an utterly bland green curry with wretched chunks of red and green pepper in (why? why?!?), and wrote it off. But three years later it’s still thriving and …

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Review: Osip, Bruton

Bruton is a tiny town on the Somerset-Wiltshire border, with two medieval schools and a rural perfection that hasn’t gone unnoticed by a scattered variety of artists, architects and antiquarians who dot the high street but wouldn’t look out of place in a quiet corner of Fitzrovia. It’s also got a Michelin star in Osip, …

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Review: Tendido Cero, Chelsea

This is the “more informal tapas bar” to the high-end Spanish restaurant Cambio de Tercio over the road. But the apple doesn’t fall far etc, and we still have fine white linen and tapas that have been cooked and presented with the soul of a fine dining chef. Not that I’m complaining about comfy chairs …

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Review: Speedboat Bar, Soho

To be honest, this Speedboat Bar review could be a copy-and-paste of Plaza Khao Gaeng, which is by the same folks. And that’s no bad thing, I’d love a branch of their kind of punchy, authentic, in-your-face Thai cooking down the road from me! I’d love one in every town I visit. Of course, I …

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