Category: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Annwn, Narberth

Oyster

Annwn might be a bit of a marmite restaurant: some will love it, others will leave bemused. For the record, we loved it, but that’s because it ticks all our culinary buttons. Chef Matt Powell cares deeply about place and provenance, loves using obscure and unfamiliar local and foraged ingredients, isn’t scared of strong flavours, …

Continue reading

Review: Barang, Borough Market

Crudites

Barang is a Cambodian restaurant residency upstairs at the Globe in Borough Market, although apparently they’re hoping to be opening permanently – probably in Soho – later in 2026. There’s not a lot of Cambodian eateries in the UK, even though it shares a lot of ingredients, techniques and dishes with the surrounding SE Asian …

Continue reading

Review: The Three Oaks, Gerrard’s Cross

STP

How have I never been to The Three Oaks before? Hmm. Perhaps because it’s in Gerrard’s Cross! Far enough out of town that I’d have no reason to come this far as a Londoner, but not far enough to be part of a weekend break. Well, the folks of Gerrard’s Cross and the Chalfonts have …

Continue reading

Review: AngloThai, Marylebone

Crab crackers

AngloThai has taken on one of those tough challenges: trying to marry the bang, zip and pow of Thai flavours with the requisite richness and finery of a fine dining tasting menu. I’ve not had very many truly great Thai-inspired fine dining dishes over the years, they often either de-power the flavours to insipidness, or …

Continue reading

Review: Beckford Bottle Shop, Bath

Beckford Bottle Shop

The Beckford Bottle Shop. It’s a wine shop and bistro in the middle of the beautiful city of Bath. It’s got a Bib Gourmand from Michelin. We stopped by for a light lunch on a blustery day in February. They’ve got the bistro decor spot on, service was friendly, and there’s a good selection of …

Continue reading