Gareth Ward strikes me as a really good guy. He’s opened this new 8-cover restaurant in the middle of Machynlleth high street, named Gwen for his mum, and put chef Corrin Harrison in charge, and then backed him to the extent of letting him create and evolve the whole menu without any input at all …
Category Archive: Rest of UK
Review: Muse, Cheltenham
When we walked in and scoped out the decor, the clientele and the menus I think we both felt reasonably confident that we’d pegged Muse. There’s a kind of up-market provincial brasserie with over-enthusiastic decor and well-dressed middle age punters where the menu is typically brave and full of all the right words (including last …
Review: The Set, Brighton
The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …
Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell
Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …
Review: The Dog & Gun, Skelton
The Dog & Gun is a pub with a Michelin star, hiding in a quiet north-east corner of Cumbria a long way from the Wainwright fells. The star is an interesting award, because there’s nothing stuffy or gussied-up about the pub or its food, and no matter what they say on their website I’ve always …