Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Row on 5, Mayfair — 5 February 2025
  2. Review: Asador 44, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  3. Review: Heaneys, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  4. Review: Crispin, Clapham — 22 December 2024
  5. Review: Cinnamon Bazaar, Covent Garden — 13 December 2024

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Saturday night fish

After buying a whole lemon sole and then butchering it to pieces with my general purpose kitchen knife, I indulged myself in the purchase of a shiny new Sabatier filleting knife. Which is a bit weird, because I’ve always been a total minimalist in the kitchen: one knife, one chopping board, one wooden spoon and …

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Recipe: Potato scone

This is useful. It goes insanely well with goulash but would work with anything you’ve got that has gravy to soak up. Or, heck, just as an alternative to bubble-and-squeak. Mash 200g potato nice and dry, then beat in 1 egg, 50ml olive oil and 100ml warm milk. Put 120g plain flour in a bowl …

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Review: Pidgin, at home

They call it “Homing Pidgin” which is quite clever. The menu for Pidgin at home is also clever, full of delicious things that don’t take much prep but pack and impressive punch and make you feel like you’re dining pretty darn fine at your own dinner table. Mini-starter was an excellent game sausage roll, 6 …

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Review: Nanban, at home

I love the menu at Nanban. It says something very true to my heart: that there is no “right and wrong” in cuisine, there is just stuff that works. And when stuff doesn’t work, it’s not usually because there’s something inherently wrong with the combination; it’s just been done poorly. So Nanban is quite clearly …

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Review: The Canton Arms, Stockwell

We were very lucky to squeeze in a Sunday lunch before Tier 3 asserted itself across London. And we picked a good’un in the Canton Arms. It’s the stable-mate of some of our favourites; the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, the Magdalen Arms in Oxford and the Stockwell Continental in… well, about four doors down …

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