Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Sabor, Mayfair — 8 November 2025
  2. Review: The Garden Cafe, Waterloo — 29 October 2025
  3. Review: The Barbary Next Door, Covent Garden — 29 October 2025
  4. Review: Rockfish, Brixham — 16 August 2025
  5. Review: The Club House, West Bexington — 16 August 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Cod flaps, luverly cod flaps

I’m a big fan of the recent revival in unusual and old-fashioned cuts of meat. Some of my favourite recipes are slow braised oxtail in mustard, wine braised lamb shanks or sticky slow-cooked pig cheeks. One thing bugs me though. Food writers who alongside their recipes lazily reiterate a view no longer true; that these …

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Review: Min Jiang, Kensington

For me Chinese has always been the ugly duckling of cuisines. It is spoken of as one of the three great originating cuisines of the world; French, Persian and Chinese. But my experiences of Chinese food in Britain have typically ranged from jolly tasty to utterly dire, with no hint of the snowy white swan …

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Soufflé essentials

It is so often said that soufflés are challenging, precarious concoctions that will collapse pathetically like your dreams of a place on Masterchef if you so much as look at them funny. They’re not! I’ve never had a problem with them, sweet or savoury. It’s not as though I learned from a pro, or spent …

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Review: The Mail Room, Ludlow (part 1)

Blogging for nine months now and this is the first time I’m reviewing a restaurant in its opening week. What can I say, it’s not often a new place opens in a small town like Ludlow, a town already stuffed with places to eat. One promising aspect of The Mail Room is that it looks …

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Hay, hay, hay!

The latest bit of experimentation inspired by our astonishing meal at Noma is hay smoking. The principle is fairly simple: put some hay into a big casserole, put some foil in with your foodstuff on top, cover with the lid and get it on a high heat for 5-10 minutes. This will get the hay …

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