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Author's posts
Review: Benares, Mayfair
Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …
Review: Ogino, Beverley
When we reported back to friends about our meal at Ogino, a Japanese restaurant in Beverley, they reflected that after a few grim experiences they have basically given up on trying Japanese restaurants outside of major cities. And I must admit I can also think of three really poor examples without much effort. Four, now. …
Review: Joro, Sheffield
I don’t usually go for wine pairings with a tasting menu. I find it ends up being too much booze and I can’t really pay attention to the later courses, often leaving the restaurant feeling a bit dyspeptic to boot. Now and again we make an exception and I’m very glad we did at Joro. …
Review: The Pack Horse, Hayfield
We’ve got a new vice. It’s this: self-catering stays attached to National Trust properties. Okay, not as exciting as you were hoping. But so far it’s been great, staying in a historic building, in what have been huge and well-equipped apartments or cottages, and with free access to roam around the grounds (when no-one else …
Swede gratin
The combination of brassica, cheese, vinegar and chilli work really well (think: kimchi toastie) and this gratin is just the best. 1 big swede (4-500g?) 1 onion 1 garlic clove 80g cheddar 180ml double cream 1dsp of little pickled Brazilian chillies Slice the swede thinly and par-boil for 4 mins in salted water. Slice the …